The Garbatella neighbourhood: a true roman experience!
Posted by: Sarah in videos, Things to do, Rome, Itineraries, Going Out, Attractions on Jun 28, 2009
Would you like to spend some time far from the city's noise and traffic? Why not consider a stroll through a fairy-tale place like Garbatella? This unique destination is so magical that you will feel engulfted in its unforgettable charm.
It was founded in the 1920's and was laid out to host workers from other parts of Italy. For this reason the first houses were built with vegetable gardens so that the new residents could cultivate the food they needed. The initial style adopted to build the housing units, including connecting courtyards and ladders, known as a "barocchetto", was both elegant and refined. Visitors will find that, using the ladders to go back and forth and passing under the beautiful archways, is a pleasure all by itself.
Under Mussolini's regime, however, typical fascist buildings began to be built. This architecture can be characterised as monumental, rigorous and severe, almost to the point of disturbing the observer. An example of this rationalist expression can be seen clearly in the Cesare Battisti primary school with its Imperial eagles and the open-work bell tower. Observing this school building one is easily reminded of the dictatorship which lasted twenty years.
The strangest impression that strikes the visitor strolling through the famous roman quarter, known as well for its frequent use as a set for various TV series and movies, is the feeling, even more than in Rome, of being in a little village frozen in time. As you continue on your way, you will notice that the families here are used to gathering in the courtyards chatting in the open air and the women, returning home with shopping bags in hand, have that typical good-natured Roman look. Life in general moves along slowly and peacefully.
If you want a taste of roman life, the one old and genuine, a stroll through Garbatella is a "must". There you will encounter truly Roman people, who speak a roman dialect and demostrate the easy-going behaviour of the real Romans. A local symbol of this Roman-ness is Carlotta's fountain where young couples gather to drink of this water before the fateful kiss.
If you pass under Via Rublino's arch which is next to the Saint Isidoro and Saint Eurosia's church, the so called "chiesoletta", an obligatory stay for pilgrims of the seven churches, and walk along this green and quiet road, you will soon arrive at Piazza G. Sapeto within a few steps, one of the most fascinating squares of the district, going down the steps to your right, you can easily reach the above-quoted fountain for people in love.
Nanni Moretti,* in his movie Caro Diario, cites Garbatella as the dstrict he likes most and we are right to believe it. From his vespa, he points out the most impressive corners, which strike us with their unmistakable beauty. You will feel the same emotions that are stirred by scenes in his movie.
- How to get to Garbatella: Coming from Termini station, take the metro linea B, Laurentina direction, and get off at Garbatella stop.
*Nanni Moretti is one of Italy's most original and indipendent film directors. His movies are full of sense of humor and very interesting if you want to know a little more about italian society.


